Author Archives: bookdwarf

Rankin Rules

I can’t remember when I first read Ian Rankin, or if I’ve even read all of the Rebus series for that matter. I just know that I can always pick up one of his books and find a great plot matched with interesting characters. The implication in Exit Music, the last Rebus novel, was that the detective was about to retire. Rankin moved to another great series that involves Malcolm Fox of the The Complaints department (the UK’s version of IAB).

To my surprise, Rebus is appearing in another book, Standing in Another Man’s Grave, out now. John Rebus now works as a civilian in the cold case department. Nina Hazlitt asks him to investigate the disappearance of her daughter ten years ago, as well as two other women who disappeared along the same highway, the A9, in the last decade. He’s reunited with his former partner Siobahn Clarke, and Malcolm Fox makes a cameo, investigating Rebus as he applies to be let back on the force. The ending leaves us to believe that this is not the last we’re seeing of John Rebus, and I for one am glad.

Cults!

I always wonder how women get sucked into cults. What’s can lure a woman to do things they normally might never consider, say marrying fifty other women in a polygamous relationship with one man? Amity & Sorrow, Peggy Riley’s debut novel addresses this very question as Amaranth flees the cult she had been a part of since the beginning. Charismatic cult leader Zacariah had sought to take their daughter Sorrow as a new wife, and Amaranth made the decision to flee with her two daughters. She drives for four days straight before crashing the car in Oklahoma. There she tries to figure out how to navigate the outside world. Her daughters, raised their whole lives in a small enclave, have an even harder time. Sorrow believes she’s the Oracle, meant to bring a new messiah into the world. She longs to be back with her father and embarks on a self-destructive mission to return to the cult. Amity, younger and more naive, tries to watch out for her sister and figure out her role in the new family structure. The whole book is disturbing, claustrophobic almost with a creepy ending. Peggy Riley has written a memorable first novel.

Rereading Essays

I don’t often reread things. There are so many good books out there waiting for me, I never feel like I have time to go back to something read once already. There are exceptions of course, like Philip Pullman’s His Dark Materials trilogy. Peter Hessler, with his newest book of essays, has become another.

The other day I spotted an ARC in the office of Peter Hessler’s Strange Stones: Dispatches from East and West. When I realized it was a compilation of essays previously published in The New Yorker, I was briefly disappointed. Still, I flipped through and started reading an essay I hadn’t caught the first time around. Then I kept on reading, even the ones I had read in the magazine. I found that it made me appreciate what a fine writer Hessler is. His profile of Yao Ming brought him off the court and turned him into a flesh and blood person for me. ‘Wild Flavor’ reviews two restaurants that specialize in rats. He doesn’t go the route many travel writers go, with the ‘look how different our cultures are, I’m eating something weird” route. He tries to understand why rat is considered a delicacy and makes an effort to eat and enjoy it.

I ended up reading the entire collection, enjoying it the entire time. Hessler’s book has reminded me that there are reasons people go back to books they love; for me, it was to enjoy the essays in a completely new way.

Truth in Truth in Advertising

When you first begin reading John Kenney’s debut novel Truth in Advertising, you might mistake the narrator for yet another one of those twentysomething lost-in-the world voices. Finbar Dolan might be lost, but he’s almost forty. A copywriter at an ad agency, he finds himself on the sets of commercials discussing baby diapers while trying to navigate the minefield of his family life. We learn in bits and pieces that his entire family is unraveling, that his abusive father is dying in a hospital, that his mother committed suicide when he was twelve, that no one in the family talks about it, that they don’t even talk to each other all that much.

 As a former advertising exec, Kenney certainly has a feel for skewering his former industry, but he’s also got a strong feeling for the turbulent currents of work and family.

Westerns and Loving Them

I’ve said it before that I love Westerns, which is why I grabbed a review copy of The Son by Philipp Meyer of the shelf as soon as I read the description. Meyer, author of American Rust, was named one of The New Yorker’s 20 Under 40, and has received comparisons to Cormac McCarthy, John Steinbeck, and William Faulkner.

In his new novel, he tells the story of an ambitious family of Texas settlers. It begins with thirteen-year-old Eli McCullough, the first male child born in the Republic of Texas, who loses his family and homestead in a brutal Comanche attack. Taken captive, he adapts to the Comanche lifestyle, learning the ways and language, and becomes the adopted son of the chief. However, disease, starvation, and the onslaught of white settlers leave him alone. Unable to fit into white or native culture, he must forge his own path. Intertwined with Eli’s life are the stories of his son Peter and his great-granddaughter J.A., a woman who must succeed in a man’s world during the oil boom years in Texas.

In the beginning, I found Eli’s story to be the strongest, looking forward to returning to it when I hit intervening chapters about the rest of the family. As the novel moved on though, the other story lines gained strength, illustrating the ambition and drive that perpetuates the family as a whole. Their wealth and power bring unhappiness and bitterness for subsequent generations. Whatever Texas once meant to Eli, it’s lost as oil replaces cattle as the center of the economy, finagling, and politicking. Meyer doesn’t spare the reader the harshness of the frontier or of the oil-boom years.

Though this engrossing novel will receive comparisons to Lonesome Dove or Blood Meridian, Meyer’s work can stand on its own two feet, earning the right to stand alongside these American classics.

Groundhog Day

In Life After Life, Kate Atkinson asks: what if you could live again and again, until you got it right?

In the year 1910, Ursula Todd arrives on a snow filled night and dies before she open her mouth. On that same night, she’s born and wails. The story goes back to the beginning time and time again. Small details change, Ursula dies again and again, but the story goes back to start each time. Atkinson makes wit and charm out of a concept that could seem gimmicky in lesser hands.

Though readers had gotten to love to her detective Jackson Brody for the last four books, this is a return to the more diverse style of her earlier inventive novels like Behind the Scenes at the Museum and Emotionally Weird. Never underestimate Atkinson’s keen eye for snappy dialogue or her ability to stun with simple profundity.

Being a Chef

The first thing most people asked me upon learning I was in culinary school was what restaurant I aspired to work in when I was done. I spent the whole year telling people that I had no desire to work in a kitchen professionally. Okay, almost no desire. Who doesn’t dream of running their own kitchen one day? After spending a lot of time doing stages (fancy name for an unpaid internship also called a trail) at various restaurants around town, I know it’s not for me for a variety of reasons.

If you want to understand how demanding a kitchen can be, read Scott Haas’s new book Back of the House: The Secret Life of a Restaurant. The food writer and clinical psychologist spent eighteen months in the kitchen of James Beard Award-winner Tony Maws of Craigie on Main, here in Cambridge. Maws began with a smaller restaurant called Craigie Street Bistrot on a side street in Cambridge with a constantly changing menu. Both a neighborhood restaurant and a place for real invention, it and Maws gained a reputation for imaginative and creative food. In 2008, Maws moved into a larger space in Central Square, Cambridge with a bar, more seats, and an open kitchen, renaming it Craigie on Main. Its reputation has only gotten better.

I’ve been lucky enough to eat there several times, both at the older location and the new. Mr. Bookdwarf and I treated ourselves to the ten course tasting menu once for a birthday. I’ll never forget the chef himself coming out with a stuffed pig trotter served on a bed of grains. Mind blowing. We were just starting to explore food and though the check set us back a bit, we regretted nothing. This was before the days when food-bloggers were photographing each plate, but I remember most of those dishes with startling clarity. In 2009, we got engaged at the bar in Craigie on Main, and held the rehearsal dinner there the night before the wedding. Another indelible image: Mr. Bookdwarf and his grandmother sharing an entree for two that consisted of a half a roasted pig’s head.

So Haas’ book holds both professional and personal interest for me. Maws gave Haas unlimited access to himself and his crew. Maws has a reputation around town for what I’ll call his intensity in the kitchen. We witnessed it once: We were eating at sat  at seats overlooking the open kitchen, which was bustling quietly until someone made a mistake. Maws sounded like he was trying not to scream. We heard only “Don’t … you… EVER….” before he stormed into the back. The line cook and the ring-side diners all seemed shaken, but the quiet bustle returned and the meal went on.

Haas gets to the roots of this intensity: For Maws, perfect execution every time is an absolute necessity and obsession. He has only the one restaurant, no cookbook, no brand-diffusion line. Chef, after all, is French for chief. Being the boss means having your name on the door and your reputation on the line when something goes wrong. Maws trusts no-one else to get things done right every single time, and so he spends his entire life in the restaurant. Over the course of the book, Haas sees Maws try to step back and delegate slightly more, trust his lieutenants to do the work, and allow them to make and recover from and learn from mistakes. Still, the entire Craigie ethos is one of absolute lack of compromise  from ingredient to table. This is, after all, a man who refuses to serve tomatoes out of season. In New England, that means that there are tomatoes on the menu only during August and September. Craigie is a rarity in the restaurant world: Innovative, completely its own animal, and still formal and restrained.

Haas shows us the kind of fanatical person, and the kind of intense work, it takes to make a restaurant like that happen, and keep happening, every day for decades.

When someone asks me if I want to be a line cook, I’m going to tell them to read Haas. I love food, I love cooking, and I love the restaurant world. But it takes a special kind of insanity to make it into your living.

You’ll Never Look at Ice Cream the Same

Michael Moss, the New York Times reporter Pulitzer prize winner reporter, has written an eye opening book, Salt, Sugar, Fat: How Food Giants Hooked Us, which continues his investigations into the processed food industry. From the creation of Lunchables to the pushback from industry giants against regulations on salt and sugar, Moss covers it all and more. You’ll learn about the bliss point of sugar, the rise of cheese in the American diet, and that Cargill turns out 1.7 billion pounds of salt a year for use in food. 1.7 billion! This book is comprehensive and I can’t stop quoting bits of it to Mr. Bookdwarf. You’ll never grocery shop the same way again, I promise. Consider this news report that came out today.

 

What’s in a Name?

The plot of Ghostman might seem familiar in a few places, but Roger Hobbs’ main character elevates this debut. He’s a lone fixer who goes by dozens of aliases and keeps almost no ties to anyone. One exception is a former associate who calls in a debt and summons him to sort out a casino robbery gone wrong in Atlantic City. It’s a gigantic mess, and as soon as he lands in Jersey, the FBI is on his tail. With only 48 hours to make it right, he knows he can trust no one.

It’s the details that make this book. I love the way Delton transforms his identity again and again, and the author’s feel for criminal strategy and slang make it a convincing thriller.

According to the back of the ARC, the movie rights have already been sold. I’ve been having lots of fun imagining the casting for it.

Making Bolognese

What does one do on the first day of the new year? Embark on a bold, new project? Make resolutions? Begin a new exercise routine? If you’re me, indulging in a day off of work, you read for most of the day and decide to make Ragu alla Bolognese. I’ve been finishing up Michael Moss’s forthcoming book on the food industry, Salt, Sugar Fat: How the Food Giants Hooked Us, and his tales of Oscar Meyer inventing Lunchables made me crave a hearty sauce.

I’ve made Bolognese before and had a good idea about the basics. I consulted Cook’s Illustrated and Mario Batali to make sure I was on track. Here’s what I did:

3-4 small carrots

2 celery stalks

1 medium onion

I roughly chopped these and then pulsed them in the food processor 6 to 7 times until they were in really tiny bits. You don’t want mash though, so don’t go overboard.

Olive oil

3 oz pancetta

I chopped this up too and pulsed in the food processor into a paste.

8 oz ground beef

8 oz ground pork

1 TBSP tomato paste

1 cup red wine

1 cup beef broth

1 cup chicken stock

1 28 oz can tomatoes

2-3 garlic cloves, peeled

Oregano, salt, and pepper to taste

1 cup milk–I used whole because I had it

I heated up some oil, about 1 TBSP, in a large dutch oven until it was almost smoking. I added the ground meats and the pancetta and browned it in two batches. Setting that aside, I added the ground mirepoix (carrots, celery, and onion) and softened them for a bit, about 20 minutes. After scooching some aside in the middle of the pan to make a hole, I added the tomato paste and let it cook for 5 minutes. Then I added the wine and let it simmer until it cooked down, another 5 minutes. I might have drunk some of the red wine too. After that you just have to add back the meat and the broths, canned tomatoes, the garlic cloves, salt & pepper, and some dried oregano. Get it to a slow simmer and wander off. Drink more of the red wine.

I checked on it periodically to make sure it was simmering and not boiling crazily. After about one and a half hours, I heated the milk up in a saucepan and added half to the sauce. Once it cooked into the sauce for 10 minutes, I added the second half.

You were probably wondering why I threw in whole garlic cloves, weren’t you? Those I fished out. They were wonderfully soft; I mashed them up and added them back to the ragu.I let it cook a bit longer but we were starving. I had some wonderful fusili pasta from Bella Ravioli in Medford (if  you live in the Boston/Cambridge area this place is amazing) so I cooked that up and served it in bowls warmed by pasta water, topped with parmesan. Yum!

Ragu all Bolognese

 

Things I would do differently next time–I didn’t do a good job of breaking up the meat as it browned. I’d make that happen. I would let the mirepoix cook longer, maybe 25 minutes. I think more tomato paste wouldn’t hurt. Now I’ve got lots of leftovers to eat for the week, never a bad thing.