Author Archives: bookdwarf

Fresh Off the Boat by Eddie Huang

You’re going to hear a lot about this book in 2013. This is the Gabrielle Hamilton of the new year, the Bourdain of the tween years we’re entering. For those of you not in the know, Eddie Huang, born in the US of Tawainese parents, created the legendary Baohaus in New York, blogs at Fresh Off the Boat about b-ball, music, and everything else, stars in a video series on Vice magazine’s site, and now is about to launch his very own memoir next month.

Huang does not glamorize his beginnings. His parents seem alternately crazy and clever, constantly harping on him to do better with some smacks around the ears. Growing up in Orlando, he falls in love with hip hop and works in his dad’s restaurant. He riffs on Southern food, old school hip hop and what’s its like to be an Asian American in America today. After law school and stints selling sneakers, he goes back to his original love–food. Opening Baohaus in the Lower East Side brings together all of the things he’s learned and written about in the memoir.

His brash style might offend some, but this memoir reads so well! I love his oppositional views. They make sense to me. Read his blog too–it’s often brilliant.

A La Lanterne!: A Mr. Bookdwarf Review

What do you know about the French Revolution? Last month, I knew precious little. I remembered a few details: There was Bastille day, and then Robespierre was the bad guy, and some guy got murdered in a bathtub, and the Queen got her head cut off, right? But which happened first? And what’s the difference between a sans-culotte and a Jacobin?

If you liked Wolf Hall and Bring Up The Bodies (and you should, they’re amazing), then go back and read A Place of Greater Safety, Hillary Mantel’s similarly excellent treatment of the French Revolution.

(Don’t go thinking history is all Mantel does, though. Her output is wildly diverse. I’m trying to read all of it, and so far, it’s all fantastic. Beyond Black, about a fortune-teller in post-Thatcher Britain, still stays with me).

So, the Revolution: If it confuses us today, it’s because it was confusing then, too. And it was long – the Bastille fell several years before Louis and Antoinette were forced from the throne. All that time, there were shifting and uncertain alliances: Some wanted a constitutional monarchy. Some wanted riots so they could suppress them and become heroes. Some wanted Louis gone and replaced with a different king. Some wanted a republic. Others anarchy. We think about it as good and evil, but of course it’s not that simple, ever. We remember Robespierre as a villain but up until the end, his friends regarded him as the most ethical of revolutionaries.

Even after reading this book, I can’t quite keep all the factions and intrigues straight – but I’m pretty sure that even the participants didn’t, either. I wonder how similar this story is to those of other revolutions, not just the American Revolution but also the current unrest in the Middle East today: All of these noble causes and common enemies come to a boil, and then the realization that the fight is now a struggle to govern.

I See a Red Moon Rising…

Sorry, couldn’t resist making the joke! I’m not sure why but I’ve ended up reading all of Benjamin Percy’s books on planes. I realized this as my flight took off from Boston as I read a scene of a werewolf devouring most of the passengers on a plane at the beginning of Red Moon, his forthcoming book.

Dear reader, a piece of advice. Don’t read horrific scenes about planes while on one.

I managed to ignore my fears and read most of this book on the way down to Atlanta last week. I’ve been an admirer of his writing since his first story collection Refresh, Refresh came out in 2007. I really enjoyed this book both the characters and the sort of Orwellian geopolitical plot Percy dreamed up. It’s a scary novel about lycanthropes where the terror comes not from the monsters but from the life-like situation created.

Don’t miss this fine novel when it comes out next May from Grand Central!

Memoirs–Who Needs Them?

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. There are too many memoirs being written and published these days. So many people, generally too young, find the need to write a book about their lives. They seem to think I should care about how they were mistreated/made fun of/solved crimes or suffered at the hands of crazy family/drugs/mean girls. Most of them I can live without–and so can you dear reader.

Sometimes I’m wrong though. Some memoirs can be so extremely well-written that it would be a crime not to write it. Domenica Ruta’s memoir With or Without You is one of those. Ruta grew up in a Danvers, Massachusetts in a trash-filled house with her drug-dealing mother. The extremes of her flamboyant mother’s behavior almost strain credulity, but Ruta writes about it in a believable, almost funny tone. I found myself reading many portions out loud to whomever I could find to listen.

Having never fit into the neighborhood, Ruta spends time in her room with her books. As she got older, she found her living situation more and more untenable, even ignoring the time she was molested by a family friend. She lost herself in alcohol and drugs–oddly the thing that made her mother think she was normal. She gets into college and moves away and you think, okay, here is her story of pulling herself up by the bootstraps and now is when she finally gets it together and finds herself.

But no. Ruta’s story goes on to describe a descent into alcohol and drug abuse that rivals Caroline Knapp’s haunting Drinking: A Love Story. Her spiral down wrenches the heart and the spiral back up is equally as gripping. Hers is not a tale of hitting rock bottom and quitting. It’s about the slow climb back to normalcy–if normalcy is living with your dad with no job.

Domenica Ruta’s humor might have saved herself. It certainly makes this book, which could be some weepy woe is me tale, into a wry, unflinching self-portrait. You won’t be able to stop reading once you start. So set aside some time and dive into the book.

The Complexities of Cheerleaders

If you read only one dark, creepy cheerleader novel this year, make it Dare Me by Megan Abbot. Besides sharing a first name, well, that’s actually the only thing the author and I have in common. Based on this novel, she’s a pretty twisted character. Abbot offers an entirely new entry in the age-old Coming of Age genre.

Three characters dominate this book: Coach French, the new cheerleading coach who unravels the pecking order; Beth, the team captain and leader of the mean girls through the force of her personality; Addy, Beth’s lieutenant and narrator of the story. This is not a squad that celebrates team spirit. They work hard, with a competitive aggro edge. The new coach whips the team into shape, bringing them ideas of national competitions and scouts. The best parts are the rough dialogues, either in person or in texts, even the coach: “Everybody give the chicken a warm welcome,” Coach says giving a gentle shove to the latest recruit, a JV cheerleader getting her shot at the show.”

There’s plot intrigue involving a suicide or possible murder, but that only heightens the already existing drama between the players. These girls might be teens, but they’ve developed a world weary existence, waiting for the day they’re no longer trapped in the world of teen hell, aka high school. Cheerleading might provide a distraction, but doesn’t it doesn’t feed their empty souls.

Falls Arrivals Brings Excellent Reads

Fall creeps up on me each year, like a soft kitten stalking prey. All of a sudden there’s a nip in the air, the leaves change colors to a brightly hued spectrum. And suddenly they’re gone. The naked trees, elegantly bare, wave their branches in the Fall wind reminding me that Winter will soon  be here and to get my sweaters ready.

Fall also brings the regional trade shows. Booksellers from all over New England come together in Providence, RI to look at, talk about, and touch all of the Fall books. It’s a great time, seeing old friends and discussing what we’ve all read in the past few months. “You really liked that?”I didn’t at all!” “I’ll add that to the top of my reading queue.”

This year I took the train down from South Station each day to Providence, whose station is only a five minute walk to the convention center. I love, love taking the train. It’s so civilized. You show up 10 minutes before the train leaves, everyone calmly boards, and you hope you get a seat on the good side with the views as you go down the coast. It also gives you a chance to read uninterrupted (unless you get caught up in a conversation about Bobby Valentine with the conductor) for a while.

Usually the pretty foliage distracts me from whatever I’m reading on the train. But this time I was lucky to grab a spectacular debut novel called The Twelve Tribes of Hattie by Anyana Mathis that absorbed all of my attention. Each chapter tells the story of a different member of the family. Throughout them all, we see Hattie and how early tragedies in her life echo for generations. In the opening story set in 1925, 16 year old Hattie nurses her twin babies sick with pneumonia. Unable to afford a doctor, they die, devastating Hattie for the rest of her life. From here, we move onto other children of Hattie’s, who feel the lack of tenderness from their mother. I was surprised to find that each story gave such vibrant portraits of each family member, telling a vignette that illuminates their entire lives.

Mathis’s novel induces heartache and tears but also respect for the characters. This first novel launches a rare talent, one that I will watch eagerly for her next works.

Ruta Sepetys: Out of the Easy

Ruta Sepetys’ first novel, about a teenage girl trapped in a Siberian prison, was published last March. Unfortunately, the title was Between Shades of Gray, and it’s probably suffered for having a name so similar to a certain infamous novel written around the same time. I haven’t read it, but it’s been well-reviewed – Sepetys is certainly making a name for herself as a writer who speaks to young adults without dumbing anything down.

Her new book, Out of the Easy, is set in New Orleans in 1950. And while it’s likely to be targeted and sold mostly to young adults, it’s hardly a children’s book. The protagonist, Josie Moraine, begins her tale with the frank but alarming sentence “My mother is a prostitute.”

Josie is determined to escape that shameful legacy and head to college in the Northeast, but it’s a long shot, especially once her mother gets tangled up in a murder…

The subject matter is challenging and mature, but Sepetys manages to avoid being explicit or titillating while still not pulling any punches. Instead, Josie is written convincingly as a young woman trying to keep her head in a world of hurt and danger and disrespect.

Recipes can be Tricky

I’ve been thinking a lot about the difference between restaurant cooking and home cooking, and between restaurant recipes and home recipes.

In a restaurant, you try to do everything way in advance, like at least a few hours and usually a day before you serve, and then just do the last bit at the very end. At home, you want a recipe that you can cook start to finish in a half hour. A recipe that takes a half hour start to finish is fatal in a restaurant: You want something that takes all morning to prepare, then can be held an arbitrary amount of time, and then finished and plated and served in just a few minutes. If it can’t be held – paella, risotto, Peking duck – restaurants often require advance orders or warn you it takes a long time to make.

And then there’s the recipe. In a restaurant, a written recipe is like crib notes or a set list. You know the song, and you’re going to perform it again and again tonight. Braise, hold, sear, plate w/ gremolata, side haricots. But you have to do it exactly the same way every time and the unstated details are endless.

It’s not written down on the notes, because you already know that the beef should be cut into exactly 6 ounce servings, that you must season, dry, and brown before braising, that the liquid is beef stock with wine, that it should be hot already, that the gremolata must be made with exactly the right ratio of lemon to parsley. You know, in advance, and from practice, that the beans must be blanched and shocked before service, and then heated with shallot oil when ordered and topped with toasted almonds when plated. Those instructions are written down somewhere, probably, but you’re not referring to them. Even so, you follow them strictly, because your food has to be consistent. You have to make that dish the same way all night, and you have to do it again next week, and it has to be the same as last time.

At home, a recipe is more detailed and also less strict. A cookbook recipe can’t assume you know all the details. It will tell you how to brown a piece of meat, how hot to make your braising liquid, suggest substitutions. If you don’t follow the instructions exactly, it’s not generally a big deal. Chef isn’t going to come over to the garde manger station and say your dice are wrong, and nobody’s going to mind if the chicken isn’t seasoned the same from one plate to the next or one week to the next.

I was thinking about this because I tried to write down how we cook our weeknight stir-fry the other day, and realized that I had no idea how much of anything we put into it. A few glugs of fish sauce, maybe? If I don’t want to get a spoon dirty I’ll just pour chili paste in straight from the jar. In a restaurant, you’d measure and weigh your portions of meat, but at home, we use whatever’s on hand, whether it’s a little extra or a little short.

This week we added corn and tomatoes because we had them lying around and they’d go bad if we didn’t. It turned out great and I kind of wish we’d measured what we did because it was better than usual. I can tell you exactly how we do it, but it’s still not a recipe. To properly tell someone else how we usually make the dish, we’ll have to measure more than we usually do, changing what we’re doing in some small way to give it the contours of a shareable set of instructions.

A Cookbook Not to Miss

David Tanis wrote in the New York Times the other day about a cookbook I wanted to highlight myself, Japanese Farm Food by Nancy Singleton Hachisu. I can hear the head shakes now–“Japanese farm food? What’s next?” It’s such a lovely book both as an object and as a cookbook. Nancy imbues the entire thing with her warm personality.  She packs so much information in this book but don’t be scared. She’s exacting about her ingredients and techniques but nothing is too difficult here.

Narcopolis by Jeet Thayil

I keep reading novels of the Indian underworld, and they keep being good. I’m going to have to balance it out with A Suitable Boy, a non-crime novel about family relationships and manners and class. M. loved it, which is reason enough to read it, but also I suspect that if I skip it I’ll be developing a skewed and unwholesome view of desi fiction. But first… one more tale of crime and dissolution.

Narcopolis, by Jeet Thayil, takes place over about 30 years, as Bombay becomes Mumbai and the license raj gives way to global capital. In the slums, that’s less important. There, the ebb and flow of tension and violence between Hindu and Muslim is unceasing, and the only real difference is that chandu (opium) is replaced by garad (heroin). The rich and privileged dabble in drugs, get sucked in, get clean, relapse, get clean again. The poor start out hopeless and never have a chance. Everyone has an excuse and a justification and time stretches out to nothing.

As a companion, consider Steven Martin’s memoir Opium Fiend, which explains a lot about the elaborate and now-outdated opium smoking equipment (it actually just vaporizes, rather than burns, the drug) that seems to play as important a role as the poets and dreamers who get sucked into the opiate undertow of Narcopolis.