Author Archives: bookdwarf

Burmese Food, or Why Haven’t I Known about this Food Before Naomi Duguid’s New Cookbook

When I got a copy of the cookbook, Burma: Rivers of Flavor by Naomi Duguid, I had no idea what Burmese cooking was even like. As it turns out, geography is a pretty good guide: To the west, Burma (a.k.a. Myanmar) is bordered by India and Bangladesh; to the north by China, and to the east by Thailand and Laos.

Ginger, lime, turmeric, and chiles fill the spice lists. Instead of fish sauce or fermented bean paste, the funky umami notes of Burmese cuisine come from dried shrimp and fermented shrimp paste. And shallots go on everything.

Sliced shallots

When I first sat down and read through it, I wished I had a whole month to cook exclusively from the book. I only had a few days, so I picked just one recipe to start with: Burmese Style Chicken Salad. Packed up for lunch with steamed rice and a lime-shallot dressing, it was an easy, healthy, and delicious meal.

Then Mr. Bookdwarf and I planned a party: Spice-rubbed Jerky, Fluffy Lemongrass Fish, Mandalay Carrot Salad, and a tapioca-and-coconut custard.

Everything was served with small bowls of hot chili oil, crispy shallots, and a powder made from dried shrimp that were reconstituted and crushed. The odd-looking shrimp powder was key, functioning like a southeast-Asian bottarga: You wouldn’t eat it by the spoonful, but sprinkled onto anything else it added mouthwatering complexity and richness.

Many of the condiments for the meal

Who knew that a plain-looking carrot salad could be so flavorful. Served in a bowl, you might pass on this–but that would be a huge mistake. This is THE BEST CARROT SALAD EVER.

The Mandalay Carrot Salad was a huge hit

Dressed with a lot of lime, fish sauce, roasted peanuts, toasted chickpea flour, and cilantro, this deceptively simple looking salad packs a lot of flavor. And it’s easy to make, too. I just grated some carrots bought at the farmers market on a cheese grater then tossed it with the other ingredients. That’s all.

The beef dish was fascinating: Thin sliced, rubbed with spices, and dried slowly in the oven for a couple hours, it became light and slightly stiff.
The spice rubbed beef before the oven
Then we fried it in hot oil until it was crispy and the turmeric in the spice rub was a rich red color. (Mr. Bookdwarf’s nails remained yellow for days). A now-closed Thai restaurant we used to go to in Union Square had a dish a little like this, and it was one of our favorites. Now that we know how to make it at home I have a feeling it’s going to wind up on party menus again and again.

Spice Rubbed Jerky

The photo of the Fluffy Lemongrass Fish doesn’t do it justice. You take a firm textured white fish–hake is what was freshly caught the day I shopped–and poach it in water with turmeric added. It gives the fish a lovely yellow hue. Meanwhile, you grind some shallots, garlic, ginger, and lemongrass into a paste.

Poaching the fish

Then once it’s cooled for a few minutes, you flake the fish into smaller pieces. Then saute the lemongrass paste in a large saute pan or wok for about five minutes. Add the fish and break it down even more in the pan. Transfer to a bowl, season with fried shallots, lime juice, and salt. Again, it’s a deceptively simple dish.

Fluffy Lemongrass Fish

I decided to make the Tapioca Coconut Delight because it was something I could make ahead of time. It’s a tapioca base topped with a coconut custard. Sounds simple. Something went wrong however. My tapioca never fully set and when I tried to spread the coconut custard–which was delicious by the way–it smeared and ruined the top. It didn’t look pretty, but my guests ate it up anyway and scored it a victory. I have no idea what went wrong. Next time I might just make the custard and turn it into an ice cream. Or perhaps I should try again. After all, no one likes to feel defeated by a dessert.

I’m looking forward to working my way through more of the cookbook – the entire chicken section looks fantastic, especially one called “Village Boys Chicken,” which is supposed to be a recipe for how you’d cook a chicken if you’d stolen it. First, I have to steal a chicken…

Note: More photos of the cooking process are here. It’s becoming more obvious that I need better lighting: As it got dark outside, my pictures got darker. Soon, I think, I’m going to get some decent photo lights.

Some Girls, Some Hats, and Hitler by Trudi Kanter

Originally published in 1984 in the UK and just as fast out of print, Some Girls, Some Hats, and Hitler was rediscovered by a British editor, who bought a used copy last year, read it, loved it, and decided to bring it out again. It’s a pretty remarkable story about a charismatic milliner in the late 30s, who designs for the creme de la creme of Vienna. She’s fun, has lovers, hangs out in cafes. Of course we all know what’s coming–Hitler and World War II. Trudi falls in love with Walter Ehrlich, a romantic businessman, but once the Germans arrive they find themselves desperate to escape.

It’s a fascinating true story from someone who witnessed much tragic history. I’m glad that it’s been found again.

NW by Zadie Smith

Bookseller confession time–up until now, I have never read any of Zadie Smith’s novels. I really like her essays but just haven’t gotten to White Teeth or the rest. When an ARC of her forthcoming book NW showed up, I grabbed it.

The novel focuses on a housing estate in northwest London. It’s split into different sections with different narrators for each and different styles. It took me a while to get into the rhythm of the book but by the second section however, I was hooked. You’re following these characters and their messed up lives, trying to will them to not make these mistakes but they make them anyway because they feel trapped or broken or just don’t know what to do. This is a really strong novel, one that makes me think I’ve been missing out by not having read her other books, something I hope to remedy soon.

Note: There’s a long piece of the novel in the July 23rd issue of the New Yorker. Here’s an interview with Zadie Smith about it.

Weeknight Dinners

People constantly ask me what we make for dinner now that I’ve graduated from culinary school. Maybe they imagine I’m whipping up souffles and Beef Bourguignon, but the reality is that I still work a full time job and neither I nor Mr. Bookdwarf gets home before 7.

Over the years we’ve developed some easy but tasty weeknight meals. Our most common weeknight meal is usually a stir-fry made with whatever we have in the fridge. It’s really great when you get some stuff from the farmer’s market. We usually make it with ground pork, bell pepper, cabbage, and carrots, but you could do just about any combination. Last night it was pork, bell pepper, cabbage, kohlrabi, and corn. Everything’s an estimate, we don’t measure, and it never comes out exactly the same, but it’s usually good and pretty quick.

Weeknight Pork Stir Fry

Ingredients:
About a pound of ground pork (or substitute other protein: cheap cuts of steak, chicken, tofu, whatever).

2-3 carrots

1 onion

1 red bell pepper, diced finely.

Half a cabbage and/or whatever other vegetables you’ve got around the house. This time it was kohlrabi and corn, but it could be broccoli or snow peas or whatever was at the market or whatever’s going to go bad first if you don’t eat it tonight.

Hot peppers

A knob of ginger about an inch and a half long

3-4 cloves of garlic

Cilantro or thai basil

If you have them on hand, mushrooms and water chestnuts are nice.

Sesame oil, 2 tsp or so

Hot sauce (garlic-chili sauce or sriracha or both), I use a lot!

Fish sauce, 1 TBS

Oyster sauce, 2 TBS

Put your meat in a big bowl, and grate in ginger and garlic. Throw in about a half-tablespoon of sesame oil, and about a tablespoon of hot sauce, maybe more if you like it spicy, and some fish sauce. Use at least a tablespoon of fish sauce. Throw in your diced bell pepper as well, why not. Stir it around.

Cut your carrots into little ovals so they’re about the same size. Set them in one bowl. Cut your other veggies up and set them aside in the same way, and :  You’ll wind up with four or five bowls of assorted sliced vegetables.

Heat up a big pan with a little oil. You’re going to par-cook your veggies in batches, not all the way through but until they’re slightly tender.

Start with the carrots, then set them aside. You may need to add a little more oil. Then cook your other veggies. You can pile them in with the carrots if you want. Then your onions, and set them aside. Then your hot peppers. You may need to add a little more oil between batches, or not. Just enough to keep stuff from sticking.

Then take everything out of the pan and get it good and hot and fry up your meat. Don’t stir it for the first few minutes: You want it to brown. At this point Mr. Bookdwarf usually goes to wash a couple of dishes because otherwise he gets impatient staring at it, and stirs, and it won’t brown right.

Once it’s browned on one side, stir it. If you’re using ground meat, now’s a good time to make sure it’s broken into approximately even bits. Let it brown a little more – but don’t cook it so much that it dries out entirely. When it’s just about cooked all the way through, add your par-cooked veggies and stir until everything’s hot. Add your mushrooms and water chestnuts, if you’re using them. When the mushrooms have softened, drizzle on about a tablespoon of oyster sauce and your cilantro or basil. Did you forget anything else? All your ingredients should be in by now.

Stir everything around a little more. Taste it. Make sure everything is thoroughly hot and all the flavors are blended. Maybe add more hot sauce. You can always make it more spicy.

Put it over brown rice. It’s good garnished with more basil or with a bit of lime.

Why You Should Read Tana French

I remember when my Penguin sales rep handed me a galley of Tana French’s first book In the Woods back in early 2007. “Megan,” he said, “even if you think you don’t like thrillers or procedurals, you have to read this book. It’s very smart and the writing will knock your socks off.” The man was right–one of the biggest reasons to keep sales reps for publishers around. I read it, loved it, and have since read the follow-ups. What I like best is that each subsequent book focuses on a different character from the murder squad, so you don’t get tired of reading about the same character. It also allows French to explore more themes. She really loves to get into the protagonist’s head and presents a unique story line for each of them.

Her latest Broken Harbor, coming out later this month, features Mick “Scorcher” Kennedy, who appeared in a minor role in Tana French’s third book Faithful Place. Here he leads the investigation of the brutal murder of the Spain family in a half constructed housing development called Brianstown. When the wife survives, Kennedy realizes the case–which might make or break his career–is much more complicated. Best of all is French’s psychological portrait of Kennedy, who appears to have the most successful solve rate of all of the detectives but has his own dark past with Brianstown, formerly called Broken Harbor. His troubled sister shows up, dragging back dark childhood memories that threaten his iron tight grasp of right and wrong.

Often by the fourth book of a series, I grow bored or the writing has gone stale, but not so with Tana French. Her stories of the Dublin murder squad remain strong and I will continue to look forward to each new one.

John Saturnall’s Feast by Lawrence Norfolk

Lawrence Norfolk wrote several historical novels, including Lempriere’s Dictionary and The Pope’s Rhinoceros. His first novel in a decade, John Saturnall’s Feast, is another richly-researched historical piece, set amid the religious and political turmoil of 17th-Century England. John Saturnall and his mother flee their village after she’s accused of witchcraft. While they hide in the woods, she teaches him what she knows of food and the earth’s bounty, but nonetheless starves to death over the winter. Saturnall survives, and eventually finds work as a kitchen boy, where his mother’s culinary gifts catch the notice of the head chef.

The many descriptions of the 17th century kitchen system make this novel alone worth reading. However the other story line about his feeling s for the daughter of the lord of the manor add another layer of both lushness and deprivation. It’s a great story, one that leaves your senses stunned and wanting more.

Beautiful Ruins by Jess Walter

Jess Walter has long been getting great reviews from bookselling friends and reviews. His latest, Beautiful Ruins, is my first foray into his books, but certainly not my last!

The novel opens with a dying actress named Dee Mornay arriving in an isolated Italian fishing village to check into the Hotel Adequate View, run by a young man with futile aspirations of running a grand resort. 50 years later, the innkeeper comes to Hollywood, and meets cynical mega-producer Michael Deane and his not-yet-cynical assistant, Claire Silver. A genuinely cinematic love story unfolds as the narrative skips back and forth. Walter does a great job drawing parallels between the small town boy straining to reach across the ocean to reach Hollywood in its golden era, and a young woman in Hollywood today straining to reach across time to do the same thing.

To Walter’s credit, the love story feels completely true and lacking the corniness that some lesser writers might add without meaning to. I’m excited to have found an author whose writing makes me so eager to read all his prior novels.

 

Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bakery

I have every single one of Thomas Keller’s cookbooks. And no, even as a culinary school graduate, I haven’t cooked anything from Under Pressure, the sous-vide treatise/coffee-table book, but I’ve lingered over every page. I do make the fried chicken from Ad Hoc At Home, and I’ve made a handful of other dishes. Mostly, these are inspirational and aspirational. Making a Thomas Keller recipe, even if you take shortcuts, is still generally better than following lesser masters to the letter.

The latest from Keller is the Bouchon Bakery cookbook. And yeah, it’s an inspiration. I don’t care if it’s already over 100 degrees in the apartment: I’m going to preheat the oven, turn the fan to high, and tell Mr. Bookdwarf to fix me a cold drink, because it’s time to start cooking Thomas Keller dishes again.

Very Short Notes About Sequels: Werewolves and Witches Department

Absolutely fun beach reads: A Discovery of Witches and Shadow of Night, by Deborah Harkness. The first is out in paperback now, and the sequel is coming soon.

Glen Duncan came to my notice with The Last Werewolf, which brought enormous doses of earthy humor to the standard vampires vs. werewolves vs. human occultists narrative. The phrase “Reader, I ate him” pretty much won my heart. Spoiler: The narrator of book 1 isn’t exactly the last werewolf. Enter the sequel, Tallula Rising, which continues the murderous fun. Don’t let anyone read this over your shoulder on the subway.